There are few places  that can boast the same historical significance as Praga, which is one of the oldest restaurants in Moscow. Its founding dates back to the 1870s when a tavern of the same name was opened on the first floor of the Tarasov and Donetsky estate. These wealthy merchants had an ability to think way ahead of their time and sense that Old Arbat would someday become the city's main commercial thoroughfare; needless to say, a tavern at the very gates to such a place would be immensely popular. Over 130 years later, Praga still maintains its high standards and cultural importance.

It's rather surprising for a restaurant that has been in operation for many decades to have kept its general appearance unchanged. In 1902, at the time of the official opening of the Praga restaurant, there were six spacious halls, two buffets, eighteen private rooms and four game rooms. Such a splendid range is very impressive now, so we can only imagine what it seemed like a century ago.

After the Russian Revolution of 1917, Praga lost most of its halls as well as the name. Still, it remained the best restaurant in Moscow - unofficially, of course - and in spite of it being called "Stolovaya of Mosselprom" people still referred to it as Praga. During the Soviet times, many people saw a dinner at the Praga as the mark of a person's status. Praga did, however, also cater to the needs of the "working people," serving moderately priced business lunches with a side of prestige.

Praga patrons are given a choice of ten halls and a variety of international cuisine. The interior design is made to impress: Greek statues greet you at the entrance, a marble staircase leads upstairs and huge mirrors in gilded frames allow you to adjust your appearance before entering the grand halls of the second floor. Each hall in Praga has a name that states its style. The "Kremlin" and "Arbat" halls, for example, drip with grandeur and are ideal for big business meetings and formal dinners. The main attraction of the "Moscow" hall is the panorama painting of the Russian capital. The "Tsar" hall is the most spectacular of all. In full accordance with its name the hall looks exactly like a dining room of a nineteenth-century country estate. The tables are exquisitely laid with porcelain and crystal, the walls are adorned by the portraits of Russia's former emperors and the dinner is made even more special by the accompanying string band.

The fourth floor holds the more modern and democratic halls. Here diners may choose the "European" and "Brazilian" halls, as well as the "Japanese" hall, which acts almost as a separate restaurant. These halls are located on the summer veranda, which is glassed-in and decorated by a multitude of potted plants. The Brazilian hall also holds a stage for the "concerts that take place every Monday from 19.00 almost till midnight," as the maître d' told me. "A Russian band is playing a mix of Latin music, yet sometimes there are Brazilian performers." 

As for the food, Praga has always been famous for its quality and diversity. The menu varies slightly in different halls; still the basis remains the same. For instance, you can try an exotic recipe in the Brazilian hall or opt for a traditional Russian borscht - or both. I would strongly recommend trying the borsht as it is the best you can find in the city, and the price is quite moderate, especially considering the caliber of the restaurant. Another section of the menu that's impossible to pass up is the selection of desserts.

I went for the exquisite mille-feuille which provided a perfect finish.

With everything that has been said, I have to point out that the main appeal of Praga lies beyond its historic significance, luxurious decadence and culinary delights. What makes Praga so special is the feeling that you get while enjoying your meal - the sense of comfort and carefree existence that is provided by the immaculate staff and the atmosphere of the restaurant. And it's this almost inexplicable feeling that will keep you coming back to Praga over and over again.

Schyot, please!

Borscht - 250 rubles

Salad a la Russ - 390 rubles

Tasmania lamb chop - 1500 rubles

Salmon fillet - 970 rubles

Mille-feuille - 350 rubles