Shashlik in the City

at 10/06/2008 23:23

The smoke from hundreds of barbecues across the city's parks is as sure a sign of summer as the drifting poplar seeds currently filling the streets with fluffy snow. As we approach the longest days of the year, here is a quick guide to that great Russian favorite: the shashlik. The ancient culinary art of sticking meat on a stick and grilling it was developed in Asia and travelled along the Silk Road with barbecuing caravan traders to become overwhelmingly popular in the Soviet Union.

How?

The only absolutely essential ingredients in a shashlik party are meat (usually pork or lamb), alcohol (usually beer and vodka) and music (whether guitar, ghetto blaster or simply a few songs round the fire). There are endless subtle variations on this theme, however, with the basic marinade (see below) that enhances the meat's flavour becoming a closely-guarded recipe. Some shashlik veterans swear by fresh pomegranate juice, others by kefir; all kinds of herbs and spices can be added and many cooks also stress the importance of kneading the marinade into the meat. The process takes several hours, but if you've left it too late, you can always buy meat ready-marinaded. Although many people opt for a birchwood bonfire, the general consensus is that the slow burn of charcoal produces better results. The metal "mangal" barbecue (available for 500 rubles and up in domestic goods' shops) and lighter fluid are also useful here.

Where?

Whether you then add flat bread, aubergines and other veg, salads and so on is up to you, the only limit being your budget and how much you can carry into the forest. In theory, lighting fires is forbidden in all the major Moscow parks, but in practice any green area is a magnet for barbecuers, who are rarely stopped. The largest of the city forests like the Bitsevsky and Izmailovsky parks are always big enough to find a peaceful spot in if you go far enough.

One of the most popular areas is the Timiryazeva Academy Park (between metros Voykovskaya, Aeroport and Timiryazevskaya). The Bolshoi Sadovy Prud ("big garden pond") reservoir at the north end is great for swimming in and on warm evenings its shores are crowded with shashliks. In general, however, the dense woodland means that dozens of parties can coexist without disturbing each other too much; there are lots of ready made picnic areas with log benches and often tables and fire-pits, the only disadvantage being the rubbish left by the previous incumbents.

Another great place to grill (and swim) is the island of Serebryany Bor (trolleybuses 20, 21, 65 or 86 from Polezhaevskaya Metro). The peninsular on the south side of the Bezdonnoe Ozero, near the new nature reserve, is particularly popular, providing numerous secluded coves and corners.

Is there an easier way?

If all this carrying and cooking sounds like a bit too much trouble after a hard day's work, you can - of course - always go to one of the numerous stalls and tents that are currently serving up tasty shashlik in nearly every park.

Best for culture - if you are visiting the lovely Kolomesnkoe park, you will find a row of wooden huts with charcoal grills outside at the north end of the park nearest to Kolomenskaya Metro. You can sit outside and admire the 16th century churches beyond the flower beds and orchards.

Best for location - if you go right through the 1950s pavilions of the VDNKh, you come to a chain of ornamental lakes where there are several cafés offering grilled meat, veg or salmon. You can sit by the water under an umbrella and feel a long way from the city, but watch out: the shashliks here are sold per hundred gram and prices can be steep.

Best for bargains - if you want to combine your shashlik experience with a bit of souvenir shopping, there is an excellent row of barbecues in the Izmailovsky Craft Market (metro Patizanskaya). For 250 rubles, the kebabs are served with bread, sauce and salad and are always fresh and tasty. N

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