The grave is marked by a simple plaque partially concealed behind some white carnations, but it was not difficult to find. Olga's final resting place sits in the shadow of her neighbor's towering tombstone - a marble monstrosity topped off with a World War II tank forever frozen in its tracks as it lurches skywards - to a decorated Soviet tank commander. After a brief search amongst the trees and tombs amidst a sudden downpour we found the humble grave, paid our due respects, before we were irresistibly drawn to the other tombstones.

Welcome to Moscow's Novodevichy Cemetery, which sits on the grounds of the convent of the Novodevichy Ensemble, a fortified kremlin that is featured on UNESCO's World Heritage List.

Although it may seem a morbid way to spend one's Sunday afternoon, strolling through an old graveyard in central Moscow, squinting at names, dates and heroic deeds on the aged tombstones, there is nevertheless a steady stream of tourists wandering the hallowed grounds, studying the striking monuments and even snapping photos. It would be difficult to name another cemetery that has made death so fashionable. Indeed, if there is an upscale gated community somewhere in the afterworld, Novodevichy would certainly have an address there. Incidentally, these hallowed grounds perhaps best lay bare the problem with the cherished Soviet idea of egalitarianism: While all communists were considered equal under the red flag of Bolshevism, a handful of the elite - the Khrushchevs, Prokofievs, Shostakoviches and the Stanislavskis - were perhaps a bit more equal than others.

In Soviet times, burial in the Novodevichy Cemetery, which was officially inaugurated in 1898, was a once in a lifetime honor only surpassed by burial in the Kremlin Wall Necropolis behind Vladimir Lenin himself. But today, since Red Square interments have gone the way of the rusty hammer and sickle, a spot at Novodevichy is now the hottest real estate for Russia's dearly departed.

As such, not all of the cemetery's permanent guests were communists, or democrats for that matter. And considering the mercenary manners of the New Russian elite, it will be interesting to see how many industrial oligarchs start pushing up daisies here in the near future (according to one cemetery official, there are no free places available at Novodevichy).

Famous Names

One of the most notable non-communists recently buried at Novodevichy is Boris Yeltsin, the first elected president of democratic Russia, who was laid to rest in April with an international entourage that included former U.S. presidents Bill Clinton and George Bush Sr.

Just 50 feet away is the grave of Mstislav Rostropovich, the renowned cellist and conductor, who died the same week as Yeltsin. Not far away from the humble grassy mounds of these two deceased movers and shakers is the resting place of Raisa Gorbachyova, the former wife of Mikhail Gorbachev, the man who Yeltsin dethroned. Her grave is marked by a full-sized statue of a young woman, whose bronze hand clenches a wilted red rose left by a visitor.

Walking around the park-like Novodevichy Cemetery, where 27,000 graves are located, is a bit like walking down the main street of a major city, where monuments to famous personages greet visitors from corners and squares. While graveyards have a natural tendency to repel people, Novodevichy has a quiet way of luring visitors through its massive brick walls to reflect on the lives so artistically depicted in a variety of mediums. One of the most touching graves is that of Yuri Nikulin, the famous comedian, who was also Russia's most beloved circus clown. Right across from a memorial to three World War II soldiers (Dovator, Talalekhin and Panfilov) who died fighting in the Battle of Moscow, Nikulin is depicted in a thoughtful reclined pose, cigarette dangling from his fingers, with a statue of his dog lying nearby.

Other famous characters from Russian history that have their final resting place at Novodevichy include Anton Chekhov, Nadezhda Stalin, Mikhail Bulgakov, Nikolai Gogol and Nikita Khrushchev.

To read about the lives of great personalities is one thing, but to see these monuments and engraved eulogies provides a whole new insight into their lives and culture.

The Convent Connection

To understand the Novodevichy Cemetery, it is vital to know some history about the main building on the grounds, known as the Novodevichy Convent (loosely translated as New Maidens' Monastery). This historically rich structure, with an architectural skyline that rivals the Kremlin itself, was founded in 1524 by Grand Prince Vasily to commemorate Muscovy's capture of Smolensk in 1514.

Although technically a convent, foreign invaders understood the strategic importance of the massive structure on the southern banks of the Moscow River. In 1610-1611, the Novodevichy Convent fell under the control of the Polish; two centuries later, Russian historians tell us, Napoleon's army failed to blow up the Convent due to the heroic intervention of the nuns.

Over time, the Convent became a convenient means for disposing of ambitious females from the dynastic families. The most famous example is Sophia Alexeyevna, the extraordinary half-sister of Peter the Great, and the first female to rule in Russia. After a power struggle with the 17-year-old Peter, Sophia was imprisoned in one of the towers of the Convent where she remained until her death.

Almost as impressive as Novodevichy's history is its magnificent ‘Moscow Baroque' architectural style. The centerpiece is Our Lady of Smolensk Cathedral, which was built in the 16th century during the reign of Ivan the Terrible. The frescoes inside are said to be the finest in Moscow. The other impossible-to-miss structure is the Belltower, which was commissioned by the Convent's future permanent resident Sophia. It is a six-tiered monstrosity that pierces the Moscow skyline at 72 meters.

By Robert Bridge 

to get there: For undergrounders, take the red line to Sportivnaya Metro, exit to the right and walk straight to the first large intersection. You will see the Novodevichy's Bell Tower to the right. The Convent museum is closed Tuesdays, but the Cemetery is open daily, 9 till 5.