Visitors to Moscow must visit the Kremlin. Whether one is interested in the politics of the present or the history of the past, the Kremlin is fundamental to Russia. Like the core of a Matryoshka doll, the concentric spheres of the Kremlin walls, Moscow and Russia all reduce to this one place. Here is Russia in essence.
It is therefore appropriate that Moscow's central fortress is guarded by interminable queues, limited tickets and boot-faced dazornayas. It took me two attempts to get into the supposedly accessible Cathedral Square and its churches because they had run out of audio guides on my first visit, and you can only buy a ticket and audio guide (500 rubles) together. Ridiculous, I agree, but once you make it inside you will be greeted by beautiful buildings of great historical interest. You can stand at the heart of the Tsars' empire and in the inner sanctum of Soviet Rule.
The Assumption Cathedral is the most important of the Kremlin churches and definitely something you should make time for. Built by the Italian Fioravanti, Italianate grace and suave of colors are interesting features of the cultural melting pot you find here.
The really challenging part is getting into the Armory museum. It took me five failed queuing attempts on two different days before I finally managed to get a ticket. Again, tickets only come with an audioguide, so instead of paying 350 rubles you end up paying 550. I may grumble about the principle of this enforced extra, but I would add that the information on the guide is interesting and indispensable if you want to put into context what you are looking at. The instructions and geography are not always easy to follow and I would say your extra 200 rubles is money well spent. Even if you had a choice.
Historically and visually the Armory is stunning. Exquisitely sculpted Fabergé eggs, gilt and filigree encased gospels and much more. This is an afternoon I would recommend to anyone. I also recommend ‘bumming a ride' on a guided tour for further information. Highlights are the Armory proper, where anyone who was once a little boy with a predilection for soldiers could spend many awestruck hours, and the fabrics and costumes section for those who were not.
The Diamond Fund is an overpriced and uninformative waste of time. Unlabelled chunks of minerals sit idle in a darkened vault, which might have been interesting had anyone pointed out what they actually were. Foreign visitors are also subjected to the insult of price gouging. Go to the Kremlin, relish the Armory, but walk straight past the Diamond Fund.
By Tom Washington
