Vladimir Kozlov

A visit to a Russian bathhouse or "banya" is an unforgettable experience for any foreign tourist who's brave enough to take the plunge. Besides being a very public way of taking a bath, it's also considered an excellent cure for stress, sore muscles and even a hangover.

To avoid being turned off by filth, rudeness of the staff or, in the very worst case, contracting fungus, it's advisable to choose one of the top-class banyas rather than an ordinary one.

Sanduny

Moscow's best-known bathhouse, Sanduny, is the best place to begin. "Who hasn't visited Sanduny, hasn't seen Moscow," reads a slogan inside the bathhouse. That's certainly an exaggeration, but saying that those who haven't visited Sanduny haven't visited a banya would be a little less so.

Located in the centre of Moscow, the bathhouse mixes a lavish historical interior with all the components of the traditional Russian banya.

The men's section is divided into three classes, with the most upscale being "vyshi razryad" ("top class").

A standard two-hour session there would set you back 1,600 roubles, with an extra 800 roubles charged for each additional hour.

After checking coats, patrons enter the changing room, which probably hasn't changed much since the bathhouse, established in 1806, underwent major renovation in 1896 -- and it doesn't exactly look like a changing room at first sight.

Its central section is occupied by long leather banquettes, and a patron is expected to take one of the numbered seats on them and get undressed, unless he has taken a booth. The section has 13 booths for three to eight people, available at 2,800 roubles to 5,000 roubles for a two-hour session, depending on capacity. Green lamp shades and matching curtains that divide the booths from the main area add to the "historic" impression.

The changing room is also the place to buy bunches of leafy twigs ("veniki"), and rent a sheet (120-170 roubles), a towel (80 roubles) or a robe (170 roubles) if you haven't brought your own. Sanduny offers two kinds of veniki: birch, which is softer, and oak. Both are available at 200 roubles. Here you can also buy slippers and a felt banya hat, the importance of which you will appreciate once you enter the steam room.

Once undressed, patrons walk to the Gothic-style washing area. In the era before showers became common, the two-dozen washing beds were always occupied by people tossing water over themselves from small tubs called "shaiki". But these days patrons prefer to use the shower stalls alongside one of the walls, while the tubs are mostly used to soak veniki.

The steam room has wood panelling, a large stove and wooden benches in several tiers. A patron sits or lies on one of the benches, keeping in mind that the higher the bench, the higher the temperature. Steam is normally controlled by the patrons themselves, who ladle water onto the rocks - something that a novice should not do, leaving it to more experienced banya-goers. Normally they announce a "steam time" by saying "Paru!"

The heat in the steam room might seem immense to a novice, and even for seasoned patrons sitting for too long in the 60 to 70 degrees Celsuis heat isn't advisable. One might also want to cover the shoulders with a towel to avoid getting burnt when steam descends. Another part of the banya ritual is beating each other or oneself with a venik to improve circulation.

After giving your body a good beating with a venik, you should go back to the washing room, where you can dive into a tank of cold water or, as a less extreme experience, have cold water splashed on you from one of the buckets installed on the wall. Alternatively, you can relax in a fake marble chair surrounded by gypsum statues of lions, or take a swim in the cold water pool with fake marble columns and a sculptured fountain.

Those who are lazy or prefer professional care can use the services of a bathhouse attendant ("banshchik"). A 25-minute wash with soap or shower gel costs 800 roubles, and a 45-minute "health" wash that includes some elements of massage will set you back 1,500 roubles. Getting an invigorating venik beating from a attendant costs 1,200 roubles and massage is offered at 500 roubles and up, but making an appointment in advance is advisable.

After several steam room sessions alternating with relaxation in the washing room, it's time to go to the changing room and relax some more on the leather seats. Although various kinds of food and drinks from the bathhouse's restaurant may be served there, a traditional banya staple is beer with crayfish. Draught beer options include Sibirskaya Korona for 160 roubles and Hoegaarden for 290 roubles, and a plate of crayfish goes for 350 roubles.

The women's section of Sanduny has only two class divisions, "top" and "second top". In the top class, a three-hour session costs 1,500 roubles, with 500 roubles charged for each additional hour. Prices for all other services are the same as in the men's "top" section. Body mud wrapping costs 500 roubles and the same procedure for just the legs is 400 roubles, while body peeling with algae and spices costs 600 roubles and the solarium 30 roubles a minute. There's also a beauty parlour offering hairstyling, cosmetics and massage services.

At present, Sanduny's most luxurious section - the private "nomerniye bani" consisting of several rooms for two to 12 people, each with an individual steam room and sauna - is currently under renovation.

Other luxurious options

Sanduny isn't the only place in Moscow to go for a banya experience. To try a "Siberian banya", visit the Expeditsiya restaurant complex. A 12,900-rouble fee allows two people to have the banya all to themselves for 2 1/2 hours, covering everything from slippers and veniki to massage with Altai honey and cedar oil, and even a "soap massage." Patrons are also served a selection of herbal teas.

A visit to the more upscale "Black Banya" on the same premises would cost 17,900 roubles for two people for a three-hour session. Here, two bath attendants serve the patrons during the entire session, using different kinds of veniki and adding skin cleaning treatments. A session ends with relaxation in the hayloft and tea with "monastery honey".

And if you want to experience a classic Russian wooden banya, try the Usadba Bannaya chain. All the banyas are built in traditional Russian wooden architecture style, with an open-air cold pool in the court yard. They offer different kinds of veniki, from birch to eucalyptus, and soap or honey massage. More contemporary facilities, such as a Jacuzzi, are also available. Fees begin at 600 roubles an hour, and may differ substantially depending on capacity, location and type of banya. Services of a bath attendant are 2,000 roubles per hour.

Addresses

Sanduny, 14 Ul. Neglinnaya, bldgs. 3-7, 625-4631, m. Kuznetsky Most, www.sanduny.ru

Expeditsiya, 6 Pevchesky Per., 775-6075, m. Kitai-Gorod, www.expedicia.ru

Usadba Bannaya, 949-9999, several locations around Moscow - for addresses see www.par.ru